Escape To Borneo (Photos)
One of the world’s nice city views is from Kowloon, looking throughout the Victoria Harbor to the mountainous concrete, glass and steel spires on the island of Hong Kong. From Hong Kong wanting again, the views had been by no means so lofty, because for 73 years the low-flying planes of nearby Kai Tak airport required building top restrictions. Now, although, with the new Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok, some powerful unleashed energy is pushing the Kowloon landscape increased, like crashing tectonic plates ceaselessly lifting great mountain ranges further above the clouds.
Just lately, after giving a talk at a convention in Hong Kong, I spent some time resting in my room on the 41st floor of the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel gazing at the mountains-in-the-making across the way in which in Kowloon, and puzzled how far away would possibly I discover the actual thing. An unfurl of the map showed that the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea was Mount Kinabalu, 13,455 toes, in the Malaysian state of Sabah on the island of Borneo, just three hours flight to the southeast. Climbing a mountain with out an elevator was strictly in opposition to doctor’s orders, as two weeks earlier I had undergone surgery, an inguinal hernia repair, and was informed to put low. However, researching Mt. Kinabalu I discovered the summit was referred to as Low’s Peak, after the European who first climbed the mountain in the middle nineteenth century. The weekend was nigh, wind waker stone watcher island so the next morning I used to be on an Malaysia Airways flight to the state capital of Kota Kinabalu, just four degrees north of the equator, for a intestine-wrenching, 4-day journey in Borneo.
For greater than a century, since explorers and missionaries first ventured into the interior of Borneo, outsiders have been captivated by its half-truths and half-fictions, awed by its headhunting heritage, its tales of giant insects and snakes, of wild men who lived in timber, of prodigious leeches that stood up when sensing a human. Borneo, which dominates millions of acres of tropical rain forests on the world’s third largest island, was the stuff of nightmares. Sabah as soon as belonged to an Englishman, the publisher Alfred Dent, who leased it and ultimately referred to as it British North Borneo. It was a state administered as a enterprise venture until 1942, when the Japanese invaded and took control. After the Second World War, the British returned and Borneo grew to become a Crown colony. In 1963, Sabah gained independence and joined the Federation of Malaysia. The identify Sabah means, “land under the wind,” a spot the place early maritime traders sought refuge beneath the typhoon belt of the Philippines.
From the airport I stepped into the silken air of the Borneo evening, saturated and sizzling, with a barely candy odor. Although it was dark, I might sense the mountain to the east, bending me with its silent mind. It appeared to reel within the minibus I rode 60 miles up into the eponymous park headquarters — Mt. Kinabalu is probably the most accessible big mountain in the tropics — the place I had dinner and checked into one of many spacious break up-level chalet. This was base camp with type.
As I sipped a port on the back balcony, tiny life in the tangle a few yards away broadcast information of my presence in a steady din of clicks, trills, buzzes and noises ranging from deep fat frying to the shriek of automotive alarms. However, there was more than wildlife in this backcloth of biodiversity beyond my toes. The 300-square-mile national park’s botanically famous flora include greater than 1,000 orchid species, 450 ferns, 40 sorts of oak, 27 rhododendrons and a plant that bears platter-size flowers, the Rafflesia. In all, Mount Kinabalu is residence to four,000 to 4,500 vascular plant species, more than a quarter the number of all recorded species in the United States.
The next morning I stepped over a moth the scale of a bat and outdoors into a day tidy and bright. For the primary time I could see the striking granite massif that looks like a mad ship riding high rainforest waves, with implausible masts, tines, spires and aiguilles dotted throughout its pitched and washed deck of rock at thirteen,000 ft. Waterfalls spilled down its sides as though a tide had just pulled again from a cliff. The youngest non-volcanic mountain in the world, Kinabalu remains to be rising, pushed upwards at the rate of a quarter of an inch a year. Borneo was formed on account of plate movements uniting two separate parts of the island some 50 million years in the past. Mount Kinabalu now lies near the location the place the two elements joined on the northeastern tip of Borneo.
About forty million years ago, the area lay below the sea and accumulated thick layers of marine sediments, creating sandstone and shale, later uplifted to form the Crocker Range. Mount Kinabalu began out about 10 million years ago as a huge ball of molten granite called a “pluton” lying beneath the sedimentary rocks of the Crocker Vary. This pluton slowly cooled between 9 and four million years ago, and about a million years ago, it was thrust from the bowels of the earth and grew to a height most likely a number of thousand toes larger than today. When the Pleistocene Ice Age emerged, rivers of ice lined Kinabalu, ultimately carrying down the delicate sandstone and shale and shrinking the summit. Low’s Peak, the very best level on Kinabalu, and the horned towers of the mountain, had been created by the bulldozing of these enormous glaciers.
Checking in with Jennifer at the Registration Office at Park Headquarters, I noticed the signal that mentioned no one may climb to the summit with out hiring a certified guide. So, I enlisted Eric Ebid, 30, a mild man of Borneo, small, enthusiastic with dangerous teeth but a ready and real smile; eyes the color of wet coal that would see every forest twitch; little English however a knack for speaking; and a wonderful singing voice. His shoes were product of thin rubber, not much more than sandals, however he walked with a spring that made his limbs appear to be fabricated from some resilient, lightweight wood. When he shook hands, he first touched his hand to his heart, and bowed. Eric was a Dusun, the dominant ethnic group of northern Borneo. The Dusuns have lived on the flanks of Mount Kinabalu for centuries and consider that the spirits of their ancestors reside on the summit, the realm of the useless. They call the mountain Aki Nabula, “Revered Place of the Useless.” They have been once warlike, and used to carry their captives in bamboo cages up the slopes of the mountain, and spear them to death in the shadow of its jagged summit.
The park bus labored to get to the trailhead, two and a half zigzag miles up the hill at a power station at 6,100 toes that not only provides electricity to Kota Kinabalu, however has a cable that stretches up the mountain to a rest house two miles above sea level.
Off the bus, we stepped by way of a gate right into a world steaming and flourishing, rife with birdsong. We have been in one of the world’s oldest dipterocarp rain forests, far older than the arbors of the Amazon Basin, now the last place on earth for most of the world’s rarest plants and wildlife.
The ascent began by dropping a hundred feet of altitude, dropping us right into a rainforest as lush and improbable because the canvases of Henri Rousseau. Then, in earnest, we started the unrelenting five-mile rise, switching back and forth over razor backed ridges, by groves of broadleaved oak, laurel and chestnut, draped in mosses, epiphytes and liverworts and thickened with a trumpeting of ferns. The trail was fashioned of tree limbs pinioned to serve as risers and occasionally as posts and handrails, a stairway pulled immediately from nature. At much-used and appreciated regular intervals, there were charming gazebos, with toilets and tanked water. I stopped at the first, refilling my water bottle.
For one million years Kinabalu was a place where only imaginations and spirits traveled; nobody disturbed the dead there — until the British arrived. In 1851 Sir Hugh Low, a British Colonial Secretary, bushwhacked to the first recorded ascent, accompanied by native tribal guides and their chief, who purified the trespass by sacrificing a chicken and seven eggs. In addition they left a cairn of charms, including human teeth. Not to be outdone, Sir Hugh left a bottle with a be aware recording his feat, which he later characterized as “probably the most tiresome walk I have ever experienced.”
By late morning, we entered the cloud forest, where the higher altitude and thinner soil start to twist and warp the vegetation. There have been constant pockets and scarves of fog. At 7,300 feet we handed by a narrow-leafed forest where Miss Gibbs’ Bamboo climbed into the tree trunks, clinging to limbs like a delicate moss. Lillian Gibbs, an English botanist and the first lady recognized to scale Mount Kinabalu, collected over a thousand botanical specimens for the British Museum in 1910, at a time when there were no rest houses, shelters or corduroyed trails.
By mid-day the weather turned grim; skies opened, the views down mountain have been blotted, and the climb was more like an upward wade through a thick orange soup of alkaline mud. I was soaked to the skin, but the rain was heat, as if it was all meant to be humane, even medicinal. For a second, I forgot my hernia.
Still, when the rain turned wind waker stone watcher island a deluge, we stopped at the Layang Layang Workers Headquarters (which was locked shut) for a relaxation and a hope that the downpour might subside. We have been at eight,600 ft, better than halfway to our sleeping hut. Whereas there, we munched on cheese sandwiches and exhausting-boiled eggs, sipped bottled water. And whereas there, I watched as a small parade of tiny women, bent beneath burongs (elongated cane baskets) heaped excessive above their heads with a great deal of meals, fuel and beer for the in a single day hut, marched by on certain feet, trekking to serve the vacationers who now flock to this mountain.
The primary tourist made the climb in 1910, and, in the same year, so did the primary dog, a bull terrier named Wigson. For the reason that paving of the freeway from Kota Kinabalu in 1982, vacationer development has been rapid, by Borneo’s standards. Over 20,000 folks a yr now attain Low’s Peak — the best level — via the Paka Spur route, and hundreds of Dusuns are employed in getting outsiders up and down and across the mountain trails.
After half-hour the rain hurtled even harder, so we shrugged and continued upwards, into the center of the cloud forest, among groves of knotted and gnarled tea-timber, whose lichen-encrusted trunks and limbs had been stunted and twisted like strolling sticks. On the bottom we stepped over foot-long purple worms, black and brown frogs and a black beetle the scale of an ice ax.
As we climbed Eric pointed out various rhododendrons with blooms that ranged from peach to pink and the insectivorous pitcher plants, the scale of avocadoes. As an alternative of nutrients in the soil, they feed on trapped insects. Coming out of a long leaf, moderately like an iris, was the trapping mechanism, a tendril and cup with a mouth that looked like a tiny steam shovel, or the lead in “Little Store of Horrors.” Local lore has it that Spenser St. John, a botanist who climbed Kinabalu with Hugh Low on his second expedition in 1862, found a pitcher plant containing a drowned rat floating in six pints of water.
At 9,000 toes the terrain began to vary drastically. Right here an outcropping of ultramafic rock made for an orange, toxic soil, out of which struggled a forest of dwarf pine and myrtle. Here, too, I met an Australian on his approach down. Though younger and hulkish, he appeared, in a word, awful — dour and green and was of the ancient mariner sort, shaken and stuffed with foreboding recommendation. “You must only do this, mate, in case you are in great, great shape,” and that i felt a ping the place my hernia scar pinched.
Accustomed to the Spartan A-frames and Quonsets that serve as huts on other mountains I have climbed, I used to be unprepared for the majesty of the spruce-wood Laban Rata Guesthouse. Anchored on stilts at the sting of a cliff just above 11,000 ft, two stories tall with a happy yellow roof, the place was like a boutique hotel. Its cozy lounge featured a decorative Christmas tree, a set of X-mas cards, even though this was months earlier than or after the holiday, and a television with a satellite tv for pc feed exhibiting The Travel Channel. On one wall had been certificates prematurely for sale stating summit success. Plate glass home windows wrapped the down facet of the mountain, the place we watched clouds stream through crags and cauldrons like rivers of fantastic chalk. When the rain stopped, I stepped exterior and watched the clouds blow off the mountain above, and immediately there was an empire of silvery grey granite, castled with barren crags, as awesome as the slopes of Rundle Mountain in Banff, or Half Dome in Yosemite, thick rivulets of water shaving off the smooth face in falls.
The canteen menu ranged from recent fish to fried rice to French fries and Guinness. In my room, which slept four, there was an electric mild and a small electric heater that allowed me to dry my clothes. Down the hall had been sizzling showers.
Exhausted from the day’s trek, I fell into the arms of Morpheus round seven, trusting that Eric would come by with a wake-up knock round 3 a.m. The motivation for starting within the wee hours was that tropical mountains usually cloud over after sunrise, and often it begins to rain quickly after, making an ascent at an inexpensive hour not solely harder, however harmful, and the coveted views non-existent.
Positive sufficient, on the crack of 3 there was a knock on the door. Considered one of my roommates, a British girl who was suffering a headache, announced she wouldn’t be going further. One other half-dozen at the hut would also flip round right here, affected by exhaustion or altitude sickness. I felt sorry for them, but in addition felt happy with myself that, despite my wound, I had the moxie and energy to proceed. I fumbled for my hiking boots and tripped downstairs for a cup of tea. At three:20, I donned my headlamp and set out below a blue-black sky hung with a glittering Milky Method. The stars appeared as close to and thick as when I used to be a toddler. I listened for ghosts, but all the things was bone quiet and cool. This was truly a mountain of the useless.
I followed the little white pool of gentle my headlamp forged on the granite simply forward of my toes. Above, the summit loomed, felt greater than seen. The darkish mass of the mountain vied with the vacuous area all around, we caught between the 2. Wanting again, I noticed a constellation of 20 or so headlamp beams bobbing and flashing as their house owners negotiated in my footsteps. I was amazed that in my condition I might be forward of so many.
The emergence at treeline onto the chilly granite face was abrupt, just as the first gold and pink bands of daybreak cracked open and singed the sky. It was like stepping from a closet right into a ballroom, and everybody appeared to maneuver a bit of sooner, enamored by the faucet of unwrapped stone, rhyming with the rock. “Pelan, pelan,” (slowly, slowly) advised Eric, as if he knew of my damage.
At places where the rock angled up 40 levels or extra, solicitous path builders had anchored expansion bolts and mounted stout white ropes. At one level, at the rock face of Panar Laban (Place of Sacrifice), the place early guides stopped to appease the souls of their ancestors, we acquired down on our knees and scrambled upwards on all fours.
Within the robed gentle of 6 a.m.clambering up an aplite dyke, I might make out the pinnacles surrounding us, legacies of the Ice Age: the Ugly Sisters and malformed Donkey’s Ears on our proper, immense St. John’s and South Peak on our left. Low’s Peak was tucked in between, like an attic staircase. The sleek plates we had been scaling became a pile of frost-shattered blocks and boulders, forming a jumble of large tesserae in the hunt for a mosaic.
To the roof of the world we scrabbled simply as the sun showed its face. I sucked some thin air, and seemed round. It was beautiful to observe the mountaintop transfigured by sunrise. The undulant granite towers warmed with mild, as guides lit up their cigarettes. It seemed like the Tower of Babel as each new climber made the final step and cheered in German, Japanese, Australian or Bahasa.
I basked now in the bliss of standing bare in opposition to the heavens, with the fathomless interior of Borneo far under me. On one facet fell the mile-deep ravine that’s Low’s Gully, sometimes referred to as Loss of life Valley or Place of the Lifeless, believed to be guarded by a slaying dragon, the place in 1994 a British Military expedition acquired famously stuck within the jungle-crammed slash. Padi fields, kampungs (villages) and an limitless expanse of jungle unfolded on one other side; the dancing lights of Kota Kinabalu and the shimmering South China Sea on another.
I circled the broken bottleneck of Low’s Peak, taking in every side. When i accomplished the circle and seemed west once more, sunrise arduous on my again, the immense shadow of Kinabalu, an enormous, darkish-blue cone, appeared to fly over the land and sea, stretching to the horizon. It was sublime; there was nothing to append.
And, I reached down and felt the scar from my latest operation, I felt mild-headed, filled to the brim with the helium of gratefulness and felt pretty trick that I had carried out what my physician had stated I couldn’t. I felt glued along with sweat and brio, king of the jungle and strutted and posed. Until I appeared across the plateau and noticed a tall, darkish-haired girl limping in the direction of me, balanced by a pair of ski poles. She sat down near me, and pulled up her pants leg to reveal a full brace that went from her decrease leg to her thigh.
“What occurred ” I couldn’t help however ask, and in a Dutch accent she replied, “Skiing accident in the Alps a pair weeks ago. Destroyed my ACL. That is my anterior cruciate ligament. Doctor stated I couldn’t climb mountains for six months. However, I couldn’t resist, so right here I am.”
Humbled, I began again down the mountain.
Nonetheless sore from the climb, I spent two extra days in Borneo, where all who handed instantly acknowledged something about me, smiled knowingly and stated “Kinabalu,” as I hobbled about like an outdated man.
A 40-minute flight took me to Sandakan on Sabah’s east coast, the place I first visited the Sepilok Rehabilitation Center, a life raft for one of the world’s largest orangutan populations. Since gazetted in 1964 to reintegrate child orangutans orphaned by poachers or separated from their mothers as a result of intensive deforestation to life in the wild, over 300 crimson apes have gone through the eight to 12 year rehabilitation course of and been launched back into the wild. It was a thrill to stand among the many apes, exchanging curious looks and wondering how our futures would fare.
Subsequent I visited the Sukau Rainforest Lodge on the banks of the crocodiled Kinabatangan River. From there I took a ride in a hand-carved boat alongside a gallery of sonneratia timber, where proboscis monkeys, with big droopy noses and bulging beer guts, made crashing tree-to-tree leaps, while bands of pig-tailed macaques chattered away. At one point a low drone of cicadas accelerated to a fierce roar that was almost deafening, and that i could barely hear the guide as she pointed out a yellow-ring cat snake twisted round an overhanging department just above my head.
And that i trundled down a laterite street, by plantations from a Somerset Maugham tableau, to visit the limestone Gomantong Caves, about as little as I may go in Borneo after Low’s Peak, the place the nests of tiny swiflets’ bring high costs in China as the primary ingredient for the prized hen’s nest soup. It was a nightmarish place, a spot crawling with poisonous centipedes, filled with the acrid stench of bat guano and the crunching sounds underfoot of a special breed of big purple cockroaches that may strip a chook carcass in a matter of hours. I used to be happy to depart. Then I was again in Hong Kong.
This time I stayed on the Intercontinental, closest resort to the waterfront, with the best view of the Hong Kong Island skyline. As I sat back within the lodge Jacuzzi nursing my wounds with a gin and tonic, gazing on the simulacra mountains, the night light dashed off the windowed pinnacles and spires, piercing a sea of clouds.
Right here, if I squinted, the illusion was full, and i might overlay the crowns of Kinabalu with these of the former Crown colony. Mountains, I realized, be them made by man or nature, reconciled the bourgeois love of order with the bohemian love of emancipation.