One Man’s Journey Round Ireland With A Sea Kayak
Chris Duff has always been a man extra at house within the water than out of it. He was working with the US Navy in Holy Loch, Scotland in 1982 when his enlistment period ended. Faced with the troublesome resolution of whether or not to re-enlist, he opted to return to civilian life. Quickly the dream of an Irish journey can be born.
Chris tried a number of trades, at one level working in upstate New York as a butcher’s assistant to an old couple from Ireland. When he requested where the outdated man was from he was instructed the Aran Islands. For these of us who love Eire it brings delightful visions of stone cottages and late evening music sessions into our heads. The couple pulled a espresso table ebook off a shelf and opened it to some hanging photos of the Aran Islands and its people – rough seas, steep rock cliffs, stone houses, pores and skin-lined boats referred to as currachs and rugged, wind-worn faces. Our man Chris was captivated by the wild sea surrounding that lovely island and a seed was sown in his brain that will develop and provides birth to a life-altering Celtic journey fourteen years later.
Chris’s decision to kayak round Eire was not the first such journey for him. He embodies the spirit of adventure that many people only dream about. He had kayaked around the US and Canada – twelve months and 8000 miles. He had additionally circumnavigated Great Britain – five and a half months and 3000 miles. Eire, nevertheless, with its wild seas and unprotected west coast, with highly effective waves assembly the first landfall of Europe, can be a special story fully.
The starting point is Dublin’s well-known River Liffey on June 1, 1996. The sacred vessel of the journey, an eighteen foot sea kayak loaded with one hundred pounds of meals, water and camping gear, a journal wrapped in plastic for secure conserving and a map of the Irish coast fastidiously splash-guarded on the helm. As Chris begins his travels he shares with us his blessings – ten years of carpentry work had allowed him to save lots of sufficient to take this treasured time off for this journey, to “take the time and simply be quiet for a few months.” Few of us have ever know that luxury however he has worked laborious for it and appreciates it; lucky for us he shares every moment so we will take pleasure in it vicariously by his words.
What struck me most about Chris’s writing is the thriller and wonder with which he regards the beauties of nature round him, notably the west coast of Ireland, the place stark cliffs are pounded by robust seas and winds whip wildly. At times he kayaks into sea caves alongside the coast and paddles in the semi-darkness and one feels his reverence for what nature has wrought in our panorama.
Ireland’s coastline is simply mad with fowl life, specific the islands off the coast. At one point a large-winged fulmar watches him curiously, floating within the air and staring him in the eyes. Chris says to him “You are so stunning my good friend. What have you seen and where have you ever been as we speak ” There’s a timelessness in the eyes of such a fowl, that could make us feel our insignificance in the face of Mom Nature. Chris visits islands wealthy with chicken colonies – cormorants, puffins, shags, fulmars, kittiwakes, guillemots, gannets, razorbills – by the thousands. They are all very tolerant of his presence and simply settle for him moderately than flying into a frenzy at his method as one would expect. It is a bird watcher’s paradise.
Along the journey, Chris visits numerous islands – some with names that sound acquainted like Skellig Michael and Clare Island, others which are tiny dots on the ocean landscape. In foul weather he sits out the wind and waves, peering from his tent at the storm outdoors, ready for a break within the weather. He takes us with him as he sleeps in a beehive hut or paddles beneath a waterfall close to Dingle Bay to take a cold freshwater shower and even goes religiously pub hopping stone island mesh jacket from session to session in the busy pub town of Dingle.
What is exceptional is that unlike many with Irish ancestry, Chris Duff didn’t come to Eire to hunt his past. He wanted to enjoy a challenging kayaking journey and be alone with the winds and the waves. The highly effective power of the Irish panorama and the Irish folks, however, makes its mark upon him. He begins to feel not solely a sense of belonging however a way of surprise and of loss. As he walks through tangles of wildflowers on a deserted island, he comes throughout ruins of stone cottages and chapels and the historical past of the place pours forth to ensnare him because it has done to so many others. He muses:
“Across the slim waterway two stone home ruins stood bathed within the final rays of sun. The island, radiant in the evening gentle, looked as if it was an enchanted fairy tale land. Shadows of stone partitions divided inexperienced meadows, and the cap of rock that broke through at the top of the island looked like a spot where fairies would possibly dance…”
I discovered it a pleasure to travel the circumference of the Emerald Isle with a philosophizing “American canoeist.” His courage within the face of the wild waves of the west coast is thoughts-boggling to a land lubber like myself. At one level he lands safely on some remote shore only to be greeted by a neighborhood emergency crew that was in search of him. Somebody had noticed him “struggling” in the waves and thought he was in distress. Meanwhile he had been having the time of his life happily battling the waves!
The names of the landmarks of his journey ring like a solid of famous actors with cameos in a blockbuster film – Mizen Head, Dursey Head, the Skelligs, Dingle Bay, the Blaskets, The River Shannon, Galway Bay, the Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands, Clare Island – and extra! The listing goes on. It actually is a cast of exceptional characters and keeps you guessing which one will stroll on stage subsequent.
When visiting the Blasket Islands, which had been abandoned reluctantly by the villagers in the 1950’s, Chris comments that in a kayak the paddler at all times sits going through ahead. In the normal Irish currach, however, the oarsmen face the rear of the boat and watch their wake. This final view of their island will need to have been fairly painful for the villagers as they rowed further and further away from the ancestral home of their kin.
The individuals alongside the way in which are uniquely Irish. At any time when Chris emerges from the sea, seemingly out of nowhere, he is met with remarks of disbelief. “You’ve got come from Dublin in that ! I believe y’er mad.” The kindness to strangers has always been the hallmark of Irish hospitality; thousands of years ago it was actually mandated by the Brehon legal guidelines of the land. It merely seems second nature to a generous people. The fishermen who casually hand him a number of lobster claws or some cleaned fish for his dinner, together with recommendation about his crossing. The housewife who makes him dinner and asks him to join the family by the fire for a night of storytelling. The couple who rise at daybreak to see him off on the following leg of his journey. The fellow kayaker in Galway who gives him a spot to stay and calm down after a spell of dangerous weather and helps carry his heavy kayak by means of the crowded streets of the town. It is just sadly in the north of Eire, the place the troubles have been still raging, where his knock at a door is met with suspicion and fear relatively than a smile and a heat welcome by the hearth.
Ireland is a revelation to our kayaker friend. He’s awed by the pure beauty of windswept islands and cliff-lined coasts, drawn to the pleasant individuals, bewildered by the sheer volume of history bursting from the seams of the landscape and humbled by the mysterious sacredness he feels. He has a reward for storytelling, for describing a scene all the way down to the last rays of the sun, that may well be proof of his Irish ancestry.
To these who’re faint of coronary heart, there are scenes in this book which are truly harrowing. Chris paddles over waves that may frighten the be-jaysus out of you and me and navigates round submerged rocks that might puncture his wee kayak and drown him. However stone island mesh jacket truth be informed, he does finish his journey safely. Because the outdated saying goes, he “lives to tell the tale.” So get pleasure from each beautiful and hair raising second of it!