Stone Island Eyes America
MILAN, Italy — When Demna Gvasalia put oversized ski parkas on the runway at Balenciaga, some traced the moment back to the affect of Italian sportswear label Stone Island, one of the primary to blur the boundaries between technical put on, streetwear and high-trend. Island Certainly, from its inception, Stone Island aligned itself with a brand new mode of dressing that defied straightforward categorisation. “The new generation of kids — in Italy, they had been known as the Paninari — was much less politically involved than mine, but extra enthusiastic about dressing,” says Carlo Rivetti, Stone Island’s president and artistic director, who founded the label in 1982 with designer Massimo Osti. “Their shirt can be by Burlington, the sweatshirt by Greatest Firm and the jacket by Moncler. And so they rapidly embraced Stone Island.” Significantly fashionable have been the label’s garment-dyed utilitarian jackets, which took inspiration from army uniforms and workwear.
“Stone Island was a company that was born by accident,” recalls Rivetti, referring to Osti’s early experiments with the resin-coated canvas used for army tarps from which the designer made Stone Island’s first jackets. “We had no enterprise technique and we had no branding technique,” he continues. Stone Island Clothes What Rivetti did have, nevertheless, was the assist of his family’s company, Gruppo GFT, one of the world’s largest apparel manufacturers, which produced and distributed clothes for Italian manufacturers like Armani, Valentino and Ungaro. The corporate got behind the fledging Stone Island and it sold quick. “GFT’s sportswear division was doing about 33 billion lira, primarily in Italy and Germany, when Stone Island was born,” says Rivetti. By the second half of the 1980s, Gruppo GFT’s sportswear division was generating about 50 billion lira in sales, with over half of its revenue coming from Stone Island, in response to the company. “There was no real men’s trend then. And Stone Island hit upon the youth movements that needed to tell apart themselves — the Paninari in Italy and the Mod’s revival and terrace tradition within the UK,” explains Rivetti.
Raso Gommato Black Cover, Stone Island 1988 assortment | Supply: Stone Island
Rivetti sees alternative and hopes that rising curiosity in luxury streetwear, along with Stone Island’s unique technical prowess, will assist to drive gross sales. (Osti left Stone Island in 1994, however was replaced by Paul Harvey, who studied textile design at London’s Central Saint Martins and is equally enthralled with technical fabrication, having experimented with the whole lot from reflective fabric to thermo-delicate jersey which changes colour with fluctuations in temperature. Harvey left in 2008 and Stone Island is now designed by a group under Rivetti’s direction.)
Heat reactive trench coat, Supreme/Stone Island Spring/Summer time 2016 | Source: Courtesy
“We’ve blended our expertise in design with the craft, technical materials growth and dyeing that Stone Island is well-known for. The resulting NikeLab x Stone Island Windrunner represents a singular interpretation stone island lgo of our foremost apparel icon,” says Joe Serino, Nike’s vice president of apparel for NikeLab. “Stone Island is a singular operation; a very special constellation of individuals and infrastructure that cannot be replicated,” provides Errolson Hugh, designer of Acronym, who has collaborated with each Stone Island and Nike.
Without stress from investors, the family-owned firm is taking things one step at a time. “There are no target numbers for North America,” reveals Rivetti. “We let issues happen organically. What we would like first is for the North American customer to know the brand’s ethos, which is about product design.”
Editor’s Observe: This article was revised on 14 March 2016. A previous model of this article misstated that Gruppo GFT was generating 33 billion lira in annual gross sales when Stone Island was launched. That figure refers to Gruppo GFT’s sportswear division.
Editor’s Word: This text was revised on 16 March 2016. A previous model of this text said that Carlo Rivetti was Stone Island’s president. He’s president and inventive director. A previous model of this article additionally stated that Paul Harvey was Stone Island’s designer. Harvey left the company in 2008, and Stone Island is now designed by a group beneath Rivetti’s path.