Stone Island: How The Model Has Advanced – Woodhouse Clothes
Stone Island’s model ethos has been set in stone since the 1980s, however the label’s dedication to analysis implies that their collection is all the time contemporary and exciting. With a dedicated world following and a again catalogue of 40,000 distinctive garments, Stone Island is in a league of its personal.
When CEO, Carlo Rivetti, was asked why Stone Island’s brand has remained so robust he mentioned:
“Stone Island has always remained true to itself, with out concessions. And so we have now been in a position to rejuvenate our goal market of consumers; we reach out each to our historic prospects, those who have faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but in addition to the younger crowd, to the brand new generations of right now.”
Whereas different brands have branched out to include different kinds or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained focused, with simply the label’s persevering with research into fabrics and dyes pushing the model ahead.
Stone Island Tradition
Ice Jacket Wool Mix in Thermo-sensitive Fabric
In the event you look back on the final thirty years, the model began with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-delicate fabrics and Kevlar designs. It would be onerous to foretell what comes subsequent and that’s what makes the model so exciting to observe.
The power of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable fashion of their clothing, has created a cult following – including celebrities akin to Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The model has additionally been related to football followers – and often football hooliganism – but the label has been fast to dissociate itself from the latter.
Inside Stone Island
As CEO Carlo Rivetti gives followers a video tour round Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen’. Jackets are ‘cooked’ in 90 – 140 levels and ‘recipes’ are followed to create every shade of colour.
Nonetheless, to most individuals, Stone Island’s dyeing facility appears extra like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of just about every colour possible, and with spectacular machinery and weighty files of formulation, the ‘Colour Lab’ is evidently a place for experimentation.
And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest thing to a renaissance painter’s workshop within the twenty first century.
Texture and colour are the starting point for each jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. A few of their dyeing strategies could cause up to 50% shrinkage, so getting the design proper is an advanced process.
Each garment is made from a selection of various fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a different means – either in how they absorb colour or shrink throughout the process. Each jacket is like a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you possibly can walk by the historical past of their experimentation.
Over Thirty Years of Design
In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella vary. The brand’s identify got here from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst 1000’s of words, ‘stone’ and ‘island’ have been the mostly occurring, and so the model was born.
The first assortment was the results of research right into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-treated to be purple on one aspect and blue on the other.
1983 – 1986
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the brand. By 1984, the gathering had developed to include jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.
It was also in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was launched, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of military origin, with polyurethane coating.
1987 – 1988
By analysis into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Mild, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The impact was a thick and glazed look.
1989 – 1991
In 1989, Stone Island launched the bottom-breaking Ice Jacket. With the event of a heat-delicate fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which modified color with the temperature.
From yellow to blue and from green to white, the Ice Jacket was a really futuristic idea. Stone Island developed the design additional to create patterned jackets which misplaced their sample in the cold, turning into icy white with freezing temperatures.
Subsequent, Stone Island developed a extremely reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow by way of a coating of hundreds of micro glass spheres. Inspired by work security jackets, this collection was extremely eye-catching and was even in a position to reflect light from very weak sources.
1993 – 1996
This was a time of great change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the crew and pushed the research ahead.
With an injection of latest concepts, the following few years saw a huge number of innovative fabrics coming into the colour Lab. The first was Formulation Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane film.
Intensive analysis additionally created Oltre, a effective nylon fabric with an ultra-shiny coating.
1997 – 1998
The analysis continued at a relentless tempo, and in 1997, Stone Island designers applied a Reverse Colour Course of approach on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then light utilizing a corrosion approach to be later over-dyed.
Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, additionally grew to become part of the gathering throughout these years.
1999 – 2001
On the turn of the millennium, the Stone Island design workforce had been incredibly busy. Launching an enormous number of latest fabrics and designs in just two years, including the Pure Steel Shell Silver and Pure Metallic Shell Bronze (as shown above). These parkas had been created with either 100% stainless steel or 100% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.
Stone Island’s designers subsequent moved onto a cloth which is 5 occasions stronger than the identical weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island discovered a strategy to dye this seemingly inconceivable material by adding a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.
Initially designed to be used on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island started to make use of silver spray on their collection of tremendous polyester jackets, including a outlet stone island roma vacuum seal of one hundred% stainless seal.
The model also launched their Ventile range, utilizing a navy textile which was one hundred% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls within the Second World Struggle.
In 2002, the range continued to increase, with jackets engineered to look flat with a sequence of folds and seams including detail.
One other success story from this yr was the sunshine Jacket. Continued research perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that mild up with blue light.
The design crew also experimented with varied layers of meshes, which revealed the inner building of the jacket.
2003 – 2005
Stone Island perfected their Compact Process to create extraordinarily dense supplies, that are boiled at 130 degrees after which shrink by as much as 50%.
Mussoal Gommata was additionally launched, developed by laminating extremely-light cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane movie.
2006 – 2007
The David TC Fabric was introduced, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed under stress at 130 degrees.
Growing their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.
Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his shoes as Inventive Director. And in the same yr, the brand’s affiliation with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Collection.
2009 – 2011
Growing on their earlier heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its sample in the cold.
The crew also developed a brand new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-delicate quartz and graphite.
2012 – 2013
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a light-weight cotton muslin, which was treated with coloured resins before the material was laminated to provide a prism-effect polyurethane movie. The material can then be double-dyed to create a wide range of vibrant colours.
Next, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Remedy, a course of which creates a garment that’s extremely water-repellent and environmentally pleasant.
2012 marked the 30th anniversary of the model and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a serious exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments have been created to replicate the history of Stone Island, together with a re-edition of Tela Stella.
Thirty years’ of analysis and 40,000 garments later, their current A/W assortment reflects this wealthy history of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the brand has to supply this year.
Garment Dyed Crinkle Reps NY
What’s next for the Brand
With a continuing drive towards creating new colours and supplies, Stone Island is a model at all times capable of shock. When asked what the long run holds, Carlo Rivetti said:
“We get inspired by individuals, architecture and design. At present we’re presently finding out some materials used in the automotive trade. In the course of the Olympics, the outfits the athletes put on are very technical, which is also inspirational.
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